12.21.2008

and it rained all night




having a million and first look at nicola formichetti's official website fakefur/ous stumbled upon this amazing editorial published in another magazine. having no additional information apart that it was shot by vogue nippon's regular contributor laurie bartley, this is an amazing opportunity to take the images just the way they are. no pre-history, no details, no hints. pure pleasure of diving into a smoky atmosphere of exotic spaces full of presense of these heroes, each with his own story, with his own silence.
this editorial reminds of that kind of movies where camera moves slowly, capturing certain interiors which speak for heros even more than their looks. interior as a hero rather than an object. speak of spaces.
this is surprising yet funny how burial's etherial dubstep sounds make a perfect soundtrack to these images.

12.18.2008

how rudeeek!



speaking of male models fakefur/ous has always been inspired by faces which are hard to accept. vadim rudik at success model management has one of those complicated faces. we'd call it severe soviet look featuring ultra-pale skin, circles around eyes and thin lips. even more we're in love with this degraded look as we were lucky enough to meet rudik in person. spending sleepless nights in moscow bars and clubs there he was, tall, slim and outstanding. a remarkable face with a great potential.
the new round of mens shows is about to start soon. rumour has it rudik is going to walk for one of the biggest houses in fashion. think b-word. think scuba. fakefur/ous didn't tell you anything.

12.14.2008

silent impersonator




on one of the hot summer days we were sitting in a cafe chatting with elena ivanchenko, the woman who discovered nataliya piro and viktoriya sasonkina. watching the sunset we spoke about international modeling, girls and... supreme. a favorite agency of fakefur/ous ever, supreme model manegement has always been a source of inspiration and the right place to find most addictive girls in business (think of iris s, daiane c, alyona o and others). in the center of fast'n'furious rotation of faces supreme has always been on the top of the game making the most incredible choices and keeping its identity high above the market demands. paul rowland's passion and creative vision is something of a living myth and supreme's incredible show packages are only a paper proof of that. genuis packages, nontheless.
hanne gaby odiele is, for sure, one of the strongest faces on the agency's board. with the constant flow of editorials and runway shows, this is the girl not to watch, but to adore. rocking bleached eyebrows and lighter blonde shade of hair color, hanne gaby was one of the best players on the ss09 fashion scene conquering the best catwalks and some of the most impressive shoots.
the latest issue of numero france features hanne gaby in deep shades of blue, red and gold. palying with graphical yet totally transformative features of the girl, photographer camille vivier captures somnambulic, yet theatrical character. styled by samuel francois and completed with an old military memorabilia, odiele seems to be a perfect impersonator of naive childish dreams of theatre, wars and graceful heroes. this is a theatre of life, full of casual dramas and silent monologues. a one man show this is.

non-it boys and girls




when dazed&confused team announced their teenage takeover issue it was just a matter of time for a real buzz to roll over. the issue has finally appeared on the newsstands and it is worth the buzz. featuring hedi slimane's photographic talent and his signature aesthetic of broken (or somehow spoiled) youth, the latest dazed&confused represents a new take on its classic, ever changing rebellious british kids. leaving all sociology and psychology behind what you see is what you get. so they say. yet, supported by traditionally incredible styling by nicola formichetti, these black-and-white images capture the very spirit of the non-it teenagers. maybe these are not the most objective representatives of what's hot/what's not in today's london and outskirts of the city, yet these are the faces that send out a certain message. it's a question how to read these signs, so everyone is free to decide on his own.
the austere series of pictures portraying two girls, jessie dunne and atty swire, wearing vintage wedding dresses from beyond retro, made fakefur/ous think of a perversed idea of strength versus weakness that is so typical for slimane's works. it's quite intriguing that images of the girls speak about sin, violence and forbidden gestures much more than about chastity and light. but it doesn't get vulgar nor offensive. dealing with symbols and signs, slimane gives the viewer his own perspective on the object which doesn't nessessary deal with reality. as everything he does, this is a documentary on the verge of a dream. as anything in fashion photography, it can hardly get better than this.

back on track



we didn't want to muse on the chanel's paris-moscou collection but the lookbook of the pieces shot by karl lagerfeld himself and starring sensational sasha pivovarova (who got the cover of a zero issue of dazed&confused russia) is something to look for. the images capture this wicked sense of reinterpretations of russian history by western europeans, cultivating a myth and creating confusion instead of celebrating the history. whether it's a good thing or bad, one doesn't know. and it really doesn't matter that much. sometimes it's all about beautiful pictures to look for.
fakefur/ous is back on track. later.

12.11.2008

premier face


being really weak in id-ing male models, fakefur/ous was totally blown away with this outstanding face. chris tanner, the rising star of premier model management, got his few pages in the december/january issue of wonderland magazine. shot by photographer ben rayner the mister bob editorial features fur coats, kilts, dogs and all the cool kids in that ironic version of a lost children fantasy. there are some things so simple one can't deny falling in love with. go, mister bob! we mean chris.

perfectly broken toy


sometimes it's hard to believe a statement like 'fashion can be smart' makes any sense. 10 magazine is one of those publications that cultivate this sort of statements. intelligent and sophisticated 10 has that extra touch of wit and healthy irony to save the world from snobbery and self-indulgence.
the latest issue includes a feature on true talent of tomas maier, creative director of much-acclaimed and totally luxurious brand bottega veneta. capturing the dark (read dramatic) side of bottega veneta's collection, these images speak of clean forms and natural body lines. yet with a random splashes of color and graphic poses of women's star suzanne diaz the shoot has some feel of unconcious conflict, something of a broken toy. fixating on the movement, photographer david hughes and fashion editor sophia neophitou-apostolou bring light and life into close to perfect statesque creations of maier. perfection has become boring and 10 does know that.

12.09.2008

devil in my life




fakefuri/ous finally got his hands on the new album of iconic grace jones. this voice (and this body) simply says dominatrix. the world is not enough for this woman. hurricane is a total must-have, fashion-wise or not.
speaking of grace jones and her signature power-dressing look, it was great to find ford's chanel iman's impersonation of jones captured by david dunan in the latest issue of mixte magazine. sporting everything noir (from jil sander to miu miu to ann-sofie back), ysl boots and fendi-like windmill hair style, grace's doppelganger brings essential jones' features to life: wildness, androgyny and geometric sensuality. polished with the tv-screen effect and plastic dummies these images scream jones.
want it or not, grace jones is still present in our lives. think world dominance and shoulder pads.

drama classes


discovering a new face is like going sightseeing the places you'd never think of. revisiting these images of perfect cheek-bones and structured chins is like skipping through the memories of one's life. everlasting beauty is in continuous revolving of snaps, polas and test shots. love for the moment, love for life.
this ice-cold but flaming beauty from poland, natalia kozior is signed with next models. everything needed is right here: drama, tenderness, androgyny and humble light in the eyes. who said contradictions don't lead to perfection?

put a spell on you


being a fan of masculine look for girls i can't stop looking at the new editorial in muse magazine photographed by very talented karim sadli. featuring delightful beauty of dna's kim noorda the pictures showcase various steps of transformation of gender, from female body to male one. to be precious the body stays the same, the package is what changes. channeling dark religious aesthetic of riccardo tisci for givenchy and sporting highly manish hair styles kim appears to be an illustration for that type of woman who got the power but doesn't really bother to show that off.

12.08.2008

outer private space


the question of private versus public space and the definition of what is intimate is one of those that appear to be really interesting. what is it that defines space as private and is it always contrary to what we accept as public?
looking at the selby's snapshots featuring sheets from the premier issue of the last magazine does make one think on the subject. the double-reality represented by the interiors shown behind the sheet and in it makes this image feel surreal. private ny apartment of magnus berger, the editor and creative director of the last magazine, appeared to be a perfect set for the playful images of julia stegner. shot by maciek kobielski and styled by victoria barlett the pictures represent that aesthetic of laid-back sexuality and realness captured in a frivolously ironic title just hanging out looking really good. it's this good old idea of sitting in the kithchen barefoot and topless while looking tres chic. some things are eternal. some spaces stay private.

12.07.2008

i could be a spectator


suffering from the strong overdose of fashion imagery one can hardly remember there's a world out there. the more surprising is the fact that the world looks nothing close to what w or 10 showcases. so the time you happen to see something otherwise one million and first transformation of eniko by inez&vinoodh you can really get surprised.
the guardians series shot by andy freeberg while visitng russia's most famous and grand museums appeared something of a relief. looking at these intelligent old ladies is a small possibility to remind oneself there's a life out of glossy pages and polaroid frames. there are people that don't look like olga sherer and, what's even more thrilling, they don't want to. there's a world that doesn't care that much about peter dundas' uncertain future and has nothing to say about lbd and rodarte. there are people, who live their lives, grow their children, cry their tears and celebrate their birthdays with home-made cakes, not with oh-so-chic macaroons. there are normal people. who would've thought?

rad's universe


indulging the current obsession with everything black and noir, it's time to get back to rad hourani. canadian fashion stylist-cum-designer is one of the multitasking talents whose aesthetic speaks for them more than the actual designs or photographs they create. some time ago rad's video piece starring supreme's meghan collison got some heavy rotation on my iphone. pshycodelic, yet dark black&white mood set by laurie anderson's walking and falling lyrics is supported by repetitive close-ups of canadian beauty with heavy fringe and severe look. this video captures the very essense of rad hourani's world. the world of dark romance filled with silent bold noise and deep whispers. as one can expect clothing is just a pass to get into.

12.06.2008

behind those eyes


there are some faces that simply fascinate. these are the faces that don't speak of traditional perception of beauty or perfection. it's about an attitude, a vibe that comes out from eyes, cheeks and lips. it's not about what you see rather than what you get. request model management's rising star yuri pleskun has this kind of face. it doesn't tell you the boy's story, but suggests there's a long story behind it. a boy with something to hide, isn't it the case when it's called personality?
model talks always end up with cliches and myths. but when it comes to an endless process of transformation without revealing a secret, keeping it mistique and untold, one has to believe it's a good thing to think about. from metal magazine to i-d, to another man, to wonderland, this boy leaves the questions without answers. as everything mysterious, this is the ride worth of taking.

tribal contemporary


with the resurrection of tribalism and primitivist aesthetic fashion can't give up the idea to totally recreate the look of urban barbarian. usually fashion editors go for ysl heritage, hypermassive accessories and models of color (chanel iman being, probably, the most obvious choice). thus it was really refreshing to see the head won't stop editorial from the latest issue of wonderland magazine. photographed by simon thiselton those images yet are more about the styling rather than technique. the looks created by publication's fashion director, grace cobb set a new dimension for the tribal extravaganza. leaving impossible prints and flowing shiffons behind, cobb goes for tons of raw knitwear, fedoras and tartans. the result is really impressive: mixed up and stuck all over model's body, endless layers of warm and cozy knits and tweeds create a new image of barbaric woman (even if it somehow reminds of the united colors of benetton creative galore).
breaking all the rules, cobb and co feature much critisized caucausian type of blond-haired russian beauty represented by one of the most sought-after gilrs in the business, anya kazakova. challenging geometric make-up and locks of fake hair, the girl delivers the right amount of savage toughness contrary to the natural glow of this porcelain skin.
frida kahlo's famous painting two fridas explored the problem of dualism and contradiction between the primeval instincts and cultural traditions one deals with. in a world full of artifice and superficiality it's no wonder we want to get back to our roots. even more so if these roots resemble jun takahashi's undercover aesthetic.

12.05.2008

plastic way of living


sex and its perception by society (therefore, its distillation in art&culture) has always been a stumbling-stone for me. confusion of terms such as sex, sexiness, sexuality causes unfortunate taste of vulgarity and platitude, not mentioning puritan debates and unnecessary censorship.
pornography as a derivative product of human's interest in sex is one of those pleasantly forbidden topics we're all so interested in. fashion, being one of the most spoiled fields of activity, has never bothered to hide this interest. from guy bourdin's suggestive imagery, to david lachapelle's plastic orgies to steven klein's, well, plastic orgies, sex has always been a matter of fact rather than a timid hint.
in fashion where bared breasts are taken for a symbol of virginity and where erected penis appears to be the next big accessory (hola, arena homme +) sex has become a commonplace. the only way to move things forward is sexualizing absolutely everything - bar sex. just as jeff burton, the man behind kris van assche's porn stars in a random laundromat ad camapaign does.

12.04.2008

one love


miles and miles of regret
it hasn't happened and won't happen yet
days and days of perfect sex
and bad tv i just try to forget...

my iconic hero miss courtney love is in the elle uk january 09 issue.

today is a sad day


one of the notes in daul kim's diary made me remember of david lynch' iconic twin peaks show. i was a little kid hiding under my blanket the very moment music started playing and the industrial sight appeared on the screen. ever since the disturbing and hysterical atmosphere of that music theme created by composer angelo badalamenti has been one of the strongest memories from my childhood. even now i have to conquer myself hearing those dangerous sounds. our whole life seems to be an endless fight with our fears and failures. i guess it's time to fight this one.
more on lynch later.

you have to trust


a friend of mine is concerned about the most vulnerable parts of human body. pointing wrists and temples she speaks of the very life running through these areas. to me the most intimate and intriguing part is back. this is the space one can hardly defense or hide. it's all about being unprepared, vulnerable and unsafe. it's also one of the most seductive parts of human body, which leaves much space for dreams and illusions (which at the end are only dreams and illusions).
it's interesting how images from the new issue of zoo magazine (featuring cole more and alana zimmer) can interpret the theme of trying to control your body, your private space. with the hints of deconstruction and bondage, it's not about sexuality nor brutality. but somehow they do deal with sex and aggression as an answer to constant danger and pressure affecting the human body. in order to survive you have to hide and armor. whether it will be a margiela suit or leather corset it is you who resist the outer world.
bjork sang, 'you'll be giving love, you'll be taken care of, you'll be giving love, you have to trust it'. isn't this utopia dangerous enough?

12.03.2008

everyone has an abyss to stare into


the latest issue of zoo magazine features alexander mcqueen's collection for men. these disturbing images of a rabbit-headed model makes one think of perverted idea of a hidden face, someone one can't see nor recognize. it's all about reflections of the image, a plot and an idea one can create. if i can't see you i'll create you. expoliting the cliche of grown-up toys (therefore, more scaring rather than simply intriguing) this editorial plays with viewer's imagination. and it's a cruel game. as courtney love's character in the beat movie quotes friedrich nietzsche, 'if you stare into the abyss long enough, the abyss stares back at you'.

12.02.2008

1000 faces


it looks like cindy sherman, photographer, artist and the woman of a thousand faces, was an inspiration behind christina kruse's 'baggy' editorial for the latest issue of interview. pictures showing witty female stereotypes (from old-money grand dame to dirty-haired gypsy bohemian redhead) kruse, who styled herself, exploits fashion's perceptions of archetypical consumers of luxury goods and brand loyalty. from hermes to chanel to fendi, the pseudo-it-bags seem to tell about their owners more than the most detailed cv. from making a fashion statement to becoming an empty canvas embelished with the desired logo, bravo pour le clown!
sherman's works also inspired pugh-obsessed, margiela-clad irish beauty, roisin murphy for a dressing galore in the you know me better video. art and life are endless. well, almost.

everybody does it


observing fashion's fast-growing interest in art, true or false, and just in time when cate blanchett scored two covers and features in british vogue and interview, i've found this amazing quote of pedro almodovar: it's like a great wheel of life, where someone is at the top, someone is down, but everyone is an artist.

12.01.2008

if i only could


new york-based photographer and casting director andrew weir is one of those brilliant people whose work relies on the originality of medium just as much as on the magic taking place between photographer and object (the later counts lara stone, inguna butane, colette, vlada roslyakova and lyoka tyagnereva among others). artists believe portraiture is all about pshycology. does an image tell something?

it would have more meaning for me to hear what critics have to say if their values and their way of living were deeper and more serious.
genius rei kawakubo in the latest issue of interview magazine. now i swallow my tongue.

tank magazine has always been such an inspiration not in terms of captivating covers with seductive blondes a la vogue paris, nor because of experimental on-the-verve-of-tasteless editorials a la self service. it is an amazing blend of intelligence and surprising wisdom one can merely associate with fashion publication (it's fashion/artzine to be precious). just as the absolute favorite berlin-based 032c magazine, tank feels clynically smart and undashebly serious without being snob. this is the format someone like me would dare to dream of being part of.
the original image featuring kinee deouff was shot by juergen teller as a part of ysl tribute.

back in the heyday of my childhood blondie's 'heart of glass' appeared to be an anthem for this little soviet kid dreaming of becoming a pioneer while waving little red flag in the kindergarten. all of my friends back then believed lenin was their grandfather and wanted to become a pilot or a cosmonaut. now that times have changed, they believe in vertu, mercedes benz and cocaine. we don't care lenin anymore, but blondie seems to be a relic. discovering capitalism promised to be as sweet as blondie's tune. no-one thought it's going to stink blood and chanel No5.
in the video her dress looks like a bastard child of martin margiela and raf simons for jil sander. or is it me over-conceptualizing?

sensual dyslexia


the more i think about visionary the less i am able to express my thoughts through text and words. whether it's creativeness or just a banal degradation i don't know. images do tell a lot, but even more they keep to themselves. silent talks, unnecessary illusions.
my personal girl of the moment, valeria dmitrienko is signed with women model management.

11.30.2008

someone's there?


few years ago i bought john updike's 'rabbit, run'. wouldn't i say this was my favorite novel ever, but the book seemed to be fantastic. just because of the cover. this budget edition featured a painting with one of the most intriguing titles i've ever met. a man who's not there.
the idea of the absent presence (as a perverted alternative to the present absence) doesn't make much sense in terms of physical organization of the world, but has something to say about our very being.
somehow the idea seems to be quite a generous source for inspiration. this original image was taken by talented photographer cum video director matthew frost. looks like everything is about contradictions in the modern world. being a decadent myself, it's not a big surprise i love it.

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